TubeDepot.com

by Mary Klaebel

Western Electric is a respected name in the vacuum tube world. However, there is more to this company’s history than tubes. A lot more.

The company had its origins a dozen years after the introduction of the telegraph. Originally known as Gray & Barton in 1856, the company became a partner with Western Union in 1872 and changed its name to Western Electric.

On the cutting edge of communications for its time, Western Electric’s main role was to produce telegraph equipment for Western Union. However, this was not all that they did. At the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia, Western Electric won five gold medals for products such as various types of alarms and a mimeograph pen.

In 1876, Western Union turned down the opportunity to own the telephone patent, not seeing much of a future for the new device. Bell ended up with the patent. Western Electric began manufacturing telephone equipment for Bell, and then for Western Union when they established American Speaking Telephone Company.

This led to a legal battle between Western Union and Bell, which resulted in the smaller Bell company winning the patent dispute and also an exclusive contract with Western Electric. Bell formally purchased Western Electric in 1881.

In the ensuing years, Western Electric pioneered a number of products and was one of the first companies to enter into a joint venture with Japan’s Nippon Electric Company.

Even today, Western Electric’s reputation for quality stands.

by Doug Sims

AT AN early morning hour
On the last night of the year
The Zune did sit and cower
For it knew its end was near

The Zune was cold and tired
And although it was un-wired
It had no friends to squirt
No friends to be inspired
And it feared the end would hurt

But when the clock ticked “Two”
A byte did move; a bit was flipped
The program shuddered; then it tripped
The old brown Zune was through

Thirty gigabytes are soon made full
Thirty gigabytes are what it’s got
Thirty gigabytes are quite a lot
Thirty gigabytes of cotton wool

The Zune has passed; it took a fall
The music’s stopped
the stock has dropped
It never “Played for sure” at all

We wonder where is Balmer
And imagine that he’s ranting
And raving at his crew
They wish he would be calmer
And stop his sweaty panting
Oh look! He’s thrown his shoe!

Robert Hull
Director of Technical Services
TubeDepot.com

10. CMOS Cookbook and TTL Cookbook - Don Lancaster / Sams IC Op-Amp Cookbook and IC Timer Cookbook - Walter Jung / Sams

Actually these are four different books all printed by the Sams corporation. These great authors skillfully take the cryptic nature of typical manufactorer component data sheets and describe circuits with real world applications. Don’t be put off by the digital discussions in some of these books for inside are hidden secrets to analog switching and matrixing. As well as some unusual analog uses for digital circuits. I have used the CMOS Cookbook more than any other, quickly followed by the IC Op-Amp Cookbook. These two being my “must have” of the group.

11. Bonus … the parts catalog.

Could anything be better than free fun? Hard copy catalogs are always good for looking at product pictures and comparing pricing. Nowadays, the internet is my first choice for researching components, however, it is still nice to smell the fragrance of a good catalog and hear the pages turn. Great bathroom reading…

These are a few of my favorites:
Mouser Electronics http://www.mouser.com/
Digi-key Electronics http://www.digikey.com/
MCM Electronics http://www.mcmelectronics.com/
Newark Electronics http://www.newark.com/
Jameco http://www.jameco.com/
MSC Industrial Supply http://www1.mscdirect.com/
Parts Express http://www.parts-express.com/
Magic Parts http://www.magicparts.com/
New Sensor http://www.newsensor.com/
Antique Elect. Supply http://www.tubesandmore.com/
Mojo Electronics http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/
All Electronics http://www.allelectronics.com/
Allied Electronics http://www.alliedelec.com/

Summary

There are so many good books that I have enjoyed over the years and picking just a few has been quite challenging. This narrowed down list is what I felt a budding reference library would do well to have. I encourage as much exploration as possible to find books that feed your individual interests. And thankfully, since electronics and the basic concepts are universal, old books are often as valuable as new ones. When dealing with tubes, old books may be the best if not only resources. As always, if you find an electronics book that sparks your interests, by all means let fellow technicians know. That way we all benefit.

Robert Hull
Director of Technical Services
TubeDepot.com

4. Essential Characteristics - GE tube manual (reprint)
This is another Tube Manual but from the General Electric (GE) perspective. This is nice because it lists several tubes that aren’t easily found in the RCA manual. I also think the data layout in this book is easier to locate and read than in the RCA version.

5. Handbook of Electronic Tables and Formulas - Howard W. Sams (or equivalent …)
In the electronics book market, there are many “technician handbooks” filled with formulas and conversions for all occasions. Of those books, I’ve found this Sams version the most durable (great covers) and filled with the best information. When there is some circuit I’m working on and I need an obscure equation for some mathmatic resolution, this book will have it. I have similar Navy handbooks that cover many Mil-Spec items of interest but the Sams book is the one I keep on my bench.

6. The Tube Amp Book - Aspen Pittman
Years ago, I remember buying the second edition of this book. Holding this book was like holding the holy grail of tube guitar amp knowledge. I read it over and over until the book literally fell apart. It had just about everything I was looking for all in one place. Today, those angels still sing over this newest version (5th?), a huge hard backed book with enormous easy-to-read schematics, top quality photos, and all the same great information…and with a CD ROM! Yea…we all should have at least one of these.

7. Getting Started in Electronics - Forrest M. Mimms III
This was the first book on electronics I ever remember buying. I “discovered” it at the local Radio Shack in the early 80’s while attending Navy electronics training. Thankfully this book and its writer, Forrest M. Mims, III made the challenging world of electronics accessible and best yet, fun. With the help of this book, I survived the Navy’s training (thank you Forrest!) and it sparked a love for electronics that continues to this day. Especially good for beginners, I strongly recommend this book for anyone looking to feed their electronics interest. In just 128 pages, Mr. Mims with his simple writing style, great explanations and numerous easy-to-make circuits makes the magic of electronics seem possible.

8. Modern Electronics Circuit Reference Manual - Markus / McGraw-Hill
This enormous red book is far from modern (1980), but many of the circuits inside are amazingly relevant. This book, as do many similar styled books, cull together circuits from various manufacturer data sheets and electronics magazines and repackage them into a single source. This book is very helpful for getting ideas flowing when designing something. The components listed are often obsolete so some replacement research will be required. But this isn’t a bad thing because any researching will pay off by strengthening ones electronics understanding. Therefore, I still use this book…torn, tattered, and wonderfully big.

Beginner's Guide to Tube Audio Design

9. Beginner’s Guide to Tube Audio Design - Bruce Rozenblit
This is a relatively new addition to my “at reach” books list. I received this book as a promotional gift with a magazine subscription and was amazed at its quality of deep tube knowledge. I found that once I started reading, I didn’t want to put it down. And by the time I reached the incredible projects at the end, I felt like a soldier prepared and ready for creative battle. Definately worth having.

by Robert Hull
Director of Technical Services
TubeDepot.com

The Calling …
My first tube amp was a 100 watt, orange colored 1971 Marshall Super Lead head. I bought it for $500 in Jacksonville, FL in 1986 from a funky little music store run out of a house/recording studio. At the time, I was in the Navy stationed there and I had outgrown my 35W solid state Fender combo. Wow, that Marshall was beautiful. Orange covering with gold trim fitted with matching glowing tubes. It was in perfect condition except…someone has modified it (badly) for 6L6GC’s. But hey, I thought to myself, I’m an electronics technician working for the worlds greatest Navy…surely I can fix it. So I thought and so began my quest.

The Quest …
As I started out on this tube amp trek, I quickly realized that my newly acquired Navy training had only taken me so far. I needed far more knowledge than I could get from the Navy. Not being an overly bright 20 year old, I began trolling the book stores and libraries for information. In a very short time, I was quickly over-whelmed with the amount of material written about electronics. There was no shortage of books on computer programming and digital electronics, but very little about analog electronics and practically none regarding tube audio. Being undeterred, I took what little money I could scrounge and I began buying books. Anything that looked good…I would take it home. If it had a circuit or two that was interesting, and I had the available funds, the book found its way to my barracks. Sadly, 90% of those books were eventually thrown out or given away (remember, I earlier mentioned my lack of brightness). It wasn’t until a few years later that I made a nervous phone call and asked the question…”what electronics books do you recommend?”

The Help …
The someone I called was Andy Marshall, and his company, THD Electronics, was a front runner in the boutique amp revolution. He had recently written an influential article in Guitar Player Magazine (November 1991) about tube technology so I figured he could answer any tube related question I could ponder. Now, I don’t know why he would have answered the phone, but on that fateful day, he picked up the phone and pleasantly answered my silly, childish questions about tube electronics. Now I don’t remember most of what I asked or even what he said except for my one question…”what electronics books do you recommend?” That question and his recommendations I remember vividly.

And Now
That question, “what electronics books do you recommend?” is the focus of this discussion. This is by no means an all-encompassing list of books. These are books that I have found useful in pursuing my electronics interests. Most of these books deal with solid state electronics, but keep in mind, Ohm’s law works the same for everything. And it is the application of Ohm’s law in both tube and solid state electronics that keeps me, and hopefully you too, interested from this day forth.

Here are the first three books on my list:

RCA Receiving Tube Manual

1. The Art of Electronics - Horowitz & Hill
This is the book that Andy Marshall recommended first, and for all the right reasons. It teaches the often abstract concept of electronics and then turns around and puts real uses on it. Beyond the basics, I learned more from this book than any source. Thank you Andy…

2. RCA Receiving Tube Manual, RC-30

This is the second book recommended by Andy Marshall. There were several versions through the years and the RC-30 version is the easiest to find. The RC-30 version is still in print and can be purchased from various sources. The projects in the back are timeless.

3. RCA Radiotron Designer’s Handbook, 4th edition - F. Langford-Smith
This is the third book recommended by Andy Marshall. The 4th edition being the huge red binder version and the 3rd edition being a much smaller, hard back version. I can’t say enough great things about both of these books. They cover 360 degrees of tube knowledge, with the 4th edition far surpassing the 3rd edition in content if not mere girth.

On Friday, I will continue this list. Stay tuned….

The short answer…between 600 - 700 degrees. But there is more to this than just a number.

For most of us, our first impression is to use as much heat as the iron will provide. Where as this may sound plausible, this isn’t the best case. In my experiences, most technicians will have their soldering irons set too hot or will be using a iron over-rated for the job they are working on. And believe me, more heat does not equate to better connections. For the most part, the exact opposite applies.

Here are a few of the bad things an overly hot iron can do:

1. An iron running too hot can permanently damage electronic components. Electronic components absorb soldering heat and if the temperature is too high, this heat could melt the internal connections in the component. At the least, make the component unreliable and prone to future failure. And unsoldering and removing a component is always harder than putting it in.

2. Soldering tips run at elevated temperatures have a very shortened life span. Where as a properly run tip will potentially last many years, a tip run too hot will often only last a few months before it has to be replaced. And with steel plated tips, they cannot be reshaped, they have to be replaced.

3. Soldering heat will melt most wire insulation. The hotter the iron, the quicker the melting. Some wire insulation will almost instantly drip off with even the shortest application of intense heat. And once the insulation is melted, it can’t be reinstalled. The wire must be replaced.

4. An overly hot iron will instantly vaporize the flux core of most solders leaving a connection without any flux. Flux, whether from the solder core or added separately makes connections flow much better by boiling off the oxide layer on the components and solder. Without the flux, the oxide doesn’t boil off to expose the bare metals underneath. No bare metals means the solder won’t stick, and this is unbearably frustrating.

5. An overly hot iron not only vaporizes not only the flux but also some of the lead and tin in the solder. This instant cloud of fumes is extremely dangerous to inhale (lead fumes / flux fumes) and the smoke screen left behind is difficult to see through for detail work. All I can say is … ewwwww.

So, how can one tell if the soldering iron is too hot?

The quickest method is to turn the iron on and let it reach its highest temperature. This usually will take 20 minutes for most irons. For the larger irons, the time maybe more but usually 20 minutes is sufficient. Now after the iron has warmed up, gently wipe the hot tip across a moist sponge and this should leave the tip clear of oxides. If the iron is too hot, this clean surface will quickly turn blue-ish and then black. A soldering iron should never be blue or black as these are signs that the tip is way too hot. Another indication is that when solder is applied to a tip that is too hot, the solder splatters and quickly smokes. Solder should flow smoothly and consistently onto a properly heated tip and the flux should vigorously boil on the surface and not instantly vaporize into a noxious cloud.

If you find that your soldering iron tip is too hot, here are a few hints:

1. If you own a variable temperature iron, turn down the temperature. Keep turning it down until when you wipe the tip, it doesn’t turn blue. It should just idle, and turn gray a little. You will probably have to adjust your soldering technique.

2. For the plug-in type, set temperature irons, you will have more struggles getting the temperature down. You can install a light dimmer type control between the iron and the wall to vary temperature. However, I suspect the cheaper route is to just purchase a lower wattage iron.

Summary

Soldering is similar to a dance between the connection and the technician’s solder. We hold the solder in our hands, and apply the heat, and the connection either dances with us or turns us down. My goal over the years of this “dance” is to marry the two happily together. I’ve been very successful so far and I hope that my experiences will help you achieve the same kind of success in your dance. As always, let me know of your thoughts.

Small Flush cutters; Small Needle-nose pliers; Wire strippers, 26 awg - 16 awg
A good solder connection is a direct reflection of the skills of the technician and the quality of the tools. These three items are essential for preparing wire or components for soldering together. I strongly encourage buying very good quality tools here. Prepare to spend 20+ dollars on each of these. These three hand tools are the most used and therefore deserve attention to quality.

Needle Nose Pliers

Flush cutters are not the same as normal cutters. Flush cutters are able to cut closer to the surface of a connection than typical cutters. As well they leave a flat surface on the wire when cut (hence “flush”). Flush cutters should have hardened steel edges (for years of use) and should never be used to cut any hardened steel. Never cut guitar strings, beading wire or even thick copper wires with your flush cutters because a dent will be left behind that probably can never be filed away. A 2 dollar guitar string can easily ruin a 20 dollar set of cutters.

Needle nose pliers are used for picking, bending, shaping, anything where fingers aren’t effective. I recommend a long needle nose for reaching into tight spaces and non-scored, smooth jaws to reduce potential damage to wires and components when holding. I usually file off the scoring as well as I file the ends to a very sharp point so as to look like tweezers. These pliers are not used for tightening anything, only for bending and holding wires and components.

The wire strippers should be very solid and designed only for wire stripping purposes. Multi-tools that do stripping and cutting and crimping are to be avoided. The cutting edges should come together very tightly and be noticeably sharp. Keeping in mind, the goal is to cut just through the insulation without cutting any of the wires underneath.

Shop light
Sadly, the average do-it-yourself technician includes this item as an after thought. Good lighting deserves better because good soldering is made under good lighting. Since most do-it-yourself work surfaces are something akin to the dining room table, the standard kitchen lighting is not adequate for the detail needed for good soldering. And as with any good tool, a good light is not cheap. Expect to spend $50+ on a decent light. I recommend a light with a long, spring loaded arm with as many metal parts as possible, especially the clamp and thumb screws. These two high stressed items when made of plastic, will eventually break. And when they break, the light becomes very frustrating if not impossible to use. A magnifier is nice but its size can often get in the way. A light with a shade handle allows grasping without getting burnt. And I still haven’t decides which I like better…florescent or incandescent lighting. They both look great.

Summary
For those reading this, we all share the common joy in making things. Not that the end gizmo isn’t great, but we see the excitement in the construction details as much as the finished product. Soldering is part of that glorious travel and good tools and techniques make the journey enjoyable. So sit back, place your table and seat backs in their upright positions, pull out the soldering irons and flush cutters, and prepare to build some useful stuff. Although, high powered CO2 cutting lasers are questionable, I do like the blinky LED things.

by Robert Hull

Vacuum solder extractor
In addition to adding solder to connections, it is sometimes necessary to remove solder as well. Especially when there is too much solder or more often, when the solder is old and too contaminated with oxides to flow well. This tool is perfect for removing larger amounts of solder from eyelets, terminals, circuit boards etc. The principle is very simple: A small tube with a spring loaded plunger finished off with a heat resistant narrow tip. The plunger is pushed down and locked into place and the tip is placed at the point where the solder is to be removed. When the solder is molten, the button of the solder extractor is pressed in, releasing the plunger creating a vacuum in the tube. This vacuum pulls in the molten solder leaving a semi-clean spot where the solder used to be. The extractor can be reused and cleaned out easily. In conjunction with solder braid, most connections can be easily cleaned of any solder. I recommend getting the metal construction to alleviate any potential for damaging static build up.

Solder braid

Solder Braid

This is the complement to the vacuum solder extractor. The solder braid is for removing small amounts of solder and for cleaning residual solder. This works so well…it just absorbs the liquid solder like a sponge. Leaving behind a clean spot, lightly tinned with the old solder. Afterward, the used lengths of braid are cut off and disposed. I prefer the types with a light coating of resin solder already applied into the braid. This makes the solder flow faster into the braid. Otherwise, it is best to load the braid with just a dab of liquid flux prior to use. I find the .1 inch width (#4 size Techspray) the most useful, and I purchase in lengths of 25 or more feet.

Orange wood stick; dental scraper/probe; hobby knife
These are all items used to either prepare a spot for soldering or inspect a solder connection. These may seem trivial, but when you need something to scrape or poke or trim, these are just the items.

The orange wood stick is useful for moving components and wires to inspect the quality of solder connections. These are made from very durable wood that is non-conductive and long enough to keep fingers away from energized equipment. The orange wood stick is a specific size and length and amazingly strong and thankfully very inexpensive. In addition to the orange wood, I also have various lengths of recycled chop sticks that work well too. And all can be reshaped with a pocket knife as the ends get deformed.

For difficult scraping, such as burnt circuit board or removing the solder mask from circuit runs, I have a couple set of dental tools. I have some scrapers, probes and carvers all in a small vinyl pouch. These are usually all metal and made from stainless steel and can be found at various hobby stores. I do recommend sharpening the edges prior to use as they often don’t come very sharp.

The hobby knife is great for general cutting and scoring. Perfect for shaping the orange wood sticks and sharpening pencils as well as removing PCB material quickly. These are wonderfully sharp and I often use them in conjunction with the dental tools to remove burnt circuit board material or for stripping insulation from instrument and microphone cables.

Heat sink tool
One of the most underrated tools that every soldering bench should have. This tool has saved many a solder job from melted insulation death. The temperatures used during soldering are very high, much higher than most wire insulation is rated for. This is the tool that will allow soldering to inexpensive PVC insulated wire without making a mess. Every time I build a guitar cable with 1/4″ Switchcraft connectors, this tool gets used. Not only will it hold the wire where I want it, the instrument cable is protected from melting like wax. Not bad for an inexpensive solution.

by Robert Hull

Cleaning brushes
There are two types of brushes I use regularly, natural bristle brushes and plastic bristle brushes. Each are indispensable when needed.

Cleaning Brush

The natural bristle brushes also known as acid brushes, come in various sizes. I prefer the 6″ handle length with 3/8″ width bristles. I buy them in bulk and as they get worn they are just thrown away. The bristles can easily be cut shorter or to a particular shape for different cleaning jobs. These brushes are static free therefore they are safe to use around ESD sensitive components. The slightly aggressive nature of the bristle ends make short work of most surface corrosion and flux residues without damaging circuit boards, runs, or components. This is my brush of choice.

The next brush I use regularly is the nylon bristle brush. These are recycled tooth brushes and their soft, thin bristles are better suited for getting into small crevasses and around small details. The bristles aren’t as aggressive as the acid brush and therefore better suited for general cleaning. Keep in mind, their synthetic construction can build up static and therefore I don’t recommend using around static sensitive components.

Cotton Swabs
These can be the drug store cotton swabs but I’ve found the technical swabs much better at holding together while in use. And the long wooden handle is a big help as well. These are usually purchased in lots of 100 or more and can be found as either single ended or doubled ended swabs. Either one is fine. Swabs are great for cleaning various types of input jacks and for absorbing contaminated solvents after cleaning.

Paper towels
These are great to have close at hand for there is always some sort of general cleaning when dealing with electronic equipment. Whether its the outside of a piece of equipment or cleaning off dirt from a face-plate or knobs or even cleaning dirt off of hands, having good quality paper towels is a must. I use paper towels most often to absorb the dissolved flux residues and corrosion while cleaning. I recommend purchasing the most durable shop towel you can afford. Time is wasted cleaning up the shards of disintegrated cheap paper towel after cleaning; it’s just better to get the higher quality towels.

by Robert Hull

Liquid RMA (Rosin, Mildly Active) flux or equivalent … designed for electronics work.
I call this the secret solder juice. Solder flows best when all the surfaces are clean. That means all wires are clean, all terminals are clean, the solder itself is clean and the soldering iron tip is clean. The nemesis of any soldering job is oxide buildup. Oxides develop on any bare metal when exposed to air…it is a natural process. We could spend lots of time cleaning every component and terminal before soldering but there is a quicker solution…flux. Flux is a multi-chemical mixture that when strongly heated, creates a mild acid that dissolves the top oxide layer of metals. With the oxides removed, the bare metal underneath allows the solder to adhere quickly and solidly. This is exactly what we want.

To use flux, dab a little onto the wire or connection just prior to applying the soldering iron tip and solder. A small amount goes along way so don’t put in too much. When the heat of the soldering iron contacts the connection with the flux, the flux will boil quickly. This is the prime point to apply the solder. With the solder applied, the flux then turns into fumes (avoid breathing). What should be left behind once the soldering iron is removed is a clean, solid solder connection and a small amount of dark amber residue.

Now, what every bottle of liquid flux needs is a:

Flux dispenser bottle with needle(s)

These plastic bottles are the best for delivering just the right amount of liquid flux. Some bottles come with multiple sized needle tips to choose from which is very convenient. I’ve recently started using the flux pens and I’m impressed. They are a terrific way to deliver flux without spillage. I think we should have both in our arsenal of flux choices.

Isopropyl Alcohol
Once a soldered connection has been made, there may be some small amount of flux residue left behind. This comes from either the rosin core solder or any added flux. In most cases, this residue will not cause any trouble, however it is a good idea to remove it. Isopropyl alcohol is the best choice for this task. Isopropyl alcohol is not the same as rubbing alcohol found in drug stores. Rubbing alcohol is often 50% water and added oils where as Isopropyl is made with no water and leaves no residue when it evaporates, which is important when cleaning.

Isopropyl alcohol, being a mild solvent, is excellent for washing out dirty tube sockets. It gently dissolves most contaminants and won’t damage the socket.

I use this solvent for cleaning all the time and consider it a “must have”. There are a few other solvents I use as well (such as Acetone - an aggressive solvent, removes paint, and Naptha - a milder solvent, great for greases) but Isopropyl is what I use most often.

Now, what every bottle of Isopropyl alcohol needs is a:

Pump liquid dispensers
These bottles make dispensing liquid solvents a big time saver while conserving overall usage. Not to mention, they don’t spill. With a light pump action and top reservoir, these bottles allow quick and timely delivery of a solvent to a cleaning brush, all with one hand. I keep three of these on my bench, one for alcohol, one for naptha, and one for acetone.